Glacier National Park, Waterton, Banff, and Jasper

Glacier National Park, Waterton, Banff, and Jasper

What I like to call the big 4

So you've made a plan to go to the crown of the continent, the going to the sun road, the most beautiful lake in the world, the fall larches, the wild beauty that is Montana's and Alberta's Rockies.  You're not to be disappointed.

Preparing for all four

I almost always hear some things when it comes to the big 4.  The first is bring bear spray!  So should you?  Is it effective?  In all honesty, no.  It's not.  Research has shown that bear spray is about 30% effective, and even then it would only prevent the initial attack of a curious bear.  If a bear was more aggressive (say later towards fall). The bear would attack again.  What's more, you can't take bear spray on planes, and the Canadian version is different from the US version, and they are not allowed to cross borders.  So buy one for the big 4?  Not exactly a good idea. That being said, I've hiked across the border with one, and border patrol officers aren't exactly looking to take your method of keeping yourself safe.  That wouldn't look good...person attacked after BP agent confiscated bear spray...  Finally, now you can rent bear spray in all four parks...so why buy it?  'nuff said.  So what should you use to keep yourself safe?  Once again the answer is surprising to most.  Bears are skiddish creatures.  I've seen two small dogs tree three relatively big bears.  Bears want to avoid you as much as you want to avoid them.  So for most casual visitors to the big 4, the best ways to stay safe are: travel in daylight, take widely used paths, don't leave your package of tuna open in the campground (you'd be surprised what I've seen), don't travel alone, make noise as you go (They've shown that bears are scared of noises made by living creatures.  So talk, stomp as you walk, etc.  They've found that bears are actually not afraid of and possibly curious of bells), and most importantly watch your season (Bears become a lot more aggressive towards late fall, also during huckleberry season be careful as bears might be in dense foliage and you won't see them till it's too late).

The next thing I hear is oh it's really cold up there, bring warm clothes.  This is true to an extent.  It's a world of extremes, it can be brutally hot during summer days and cool off to almost freezing at night.  Sometimes, in the summer, it can snow as well.  You've been warned.  That being said, if you're coming in August you don't need to prepare for the worst in Glacier.  Most of the time, you will have shops within a short distance unless you intend to go deep into the backcountry.  Well...then you better prepare.  Also Banff and Jasper are much more remote, so be careful as you may need to prepare a little more for the long drives to the far far north.

Glacier National Park

What should you do?  Where should you start?  Glacier National Park is an interesting park in itself.  The majority of the park is completely inaccessible to motor vehicles.  The only way to get to the heart of the park is by signing up for backcountry permits months in advance, or by getting a lucky walk in permit. This is what makes it one of the most amazing parks in the US.  This is the true heart of wild country.  Home to almost 1,000 grizzly bears.  This range hosts some of the most unique wildlife and fauna in the greater US.  Look for grizzlies, moose, marmots, bighorn sheep, mountain goats, beargrass and huckleberries.  So where are you likely to see the most of these?

Many Glacier is probably my favorite area of the entire park.  Home to many of the bears.  This area is probably your best chance for spotting a grizzly by car.  Look for them near the many lakes.  If you're up for a bit of a hike, this area also has what I consider the most beautiful day hikes in the park.  They are somewhat strenuous, going between 4-7 miles one way, but they are worth the trip.  Also there is quite good fishing in this area.  Though the best is on the other side of Ptarmigan Tunnel.  Additionally, this is home to one of the best lodges in the park with its sister lodge in Waterton Parks from a period of tourism long gone by.  If you have the money, I have heard it's worth the stay.  Let me know if you go and like it!  Also, don't miss the best place to get huckleberry pies on the way out of St. Mary's towards Many Glacier.  Out of the town on the right will be a lone shack with bright purple letters on the outside.  This is the place.  I think it's something sisters.  Don't remember the name exactly, but I'm a huckleberry fiend, and I can tell you they have the best.  Although most of the places in St. Mary's have good slices.

Next up is the Going to the Sun Road.  This has most of the great stops and short day hikes of the park.  Also the trip to Logan Pass is unbeatable, especially if you then do the short mile hike to Hidden Lake Overlook.  That along with the short mile hike to Avalanche Falls are probably my favorite parts of the park that can be reached quickly.  On top of Logan Pass you're likely to see some bighorn sheep.  A herd usually hangs out around there in the summer.  The hike to Hidden Lake will also usually have mountain goats, so one quick trip can check all those off your list.  The goats will get surprisingly close to you as well.  It's a very interesting experience.  Don't touch them though.  There are also some other great viewpoints like Goose Island Overlook and green pools.  Also keep a wary eye on Lake McDonald as sometimes its surface can be a perfectly still reflection of the mountains in the distance.  This usually happens in alcoves as you drive around it.  There are plenty of places to stop as you drive through, so just keep a weather eye on it.  Also do not stop for huckleberry pie on the way to West Glacier if you're coming from Kalispell or Whitefish.  Their pies aren't the greatest.  If all of St. Mary's is out of them, you may have to try one there to get the taste, but they are by far not the best.  Finally feel free to take a scenic ferry ride across St. Mary's if you're in the mood.  Be prepared for this journey to take a long time to drive from one end to the other.  Traffic can back up very quickly and I've had it take 7 hours to get from one end and back. You can also take buses all along this route, but in my experience, they are not extremely fast, nor reliable.

East Glacier and Two Medicine Lake comes up next.  This area was once the pride and joy of Glacier National Park.  The railroad stopped here and it was the true entry point to the park in the past.  It is still a beautiful place for things like weddings and other fun getaways.  That being said over the past 20 years this area has been one of the least visited areas in the park owing to a large fire that ravaged the south eastern area of GNP.  Now, however, the area is reborn.  Nowhere will you find as many flowers during the spring as this area in the park.  It also offers a completely different landscape as the park is covered in lower growth rather than large trees.

Finally, there's Bowman lake and Kintla Lake.  These were both beautiful the last times I went, but last year a large fire ravaged that side of the park, so I do not know their status now. Also, this part of the park can be hard to get to if you don't have a high clearance car.  Lots of dirt roads past Polebridge.

Waterton

Waterton is probably the cutest town you'll see in the big 4.  Banff is nice, but you really miss the beautiful deep lake and the mountainous backdrop.  I've been to Waterton a few times and every time I've gone, I've seen a bear as you enter the town.  Not sure if this is always the case, but hey might be a good possibility to see a bear if that's at the top of your list.  Next up if you're coming from Montana, you'll find Canadians don't often have huckleberries (this changed the last time I went to now in Waterton they're called huckleberries).  But in general, in Canada, huckleberries are called Saskatoonberries.  Waterton is a really cute city and worth a visit just for that.  Besides that there are numerous hikes nearby, but most go straight up a mountain, so be prepared for that.  There are also some beautiful falls that you can drive to or a short walk from the village.  Finally, you can stay at the beautiful royal hotel, scuba dive in the deep cold depths or take a ferry across the lake to Glacier and Montana.

Banff

Having finished GNP and Waterton it's time to head to Banff.  I usually consider Banff, Kootenay, and Yoho to be one National Park.  Not really sure why they aren't other than it makes it so you have to pay an entrance fee three times instead of one.  Here the wild really begins.  You'll see on the sides of the road the animal crossings and fences created to keep wildlife off the road.  It seems like the crossings have been quite successful, but they make it eerie to walk over one of the ladders onto the other side of the fence.  Seems like you are entering Jurassic Park. Banff village is nice, it is a nice little ski town in the winter.  You can also take the tram up to the top of the mountain for excellent views of Banff.  Additionally there are quite a few hot springs nearby, some even at the hotels you can stay at, so keep an eye on that if you're a hot spring lover.

Banff and Lake Louise/Sunshine are great ski areas if you're interested in going in the winter.  Also in January they have a world championship ice carving week and they leave the sculptures until they melt.  I have yet to go, but it looks magical.  Also during the winter, they will plow the snow off of Lake Louise in front of the Fairmont, so you can skate to your hearts content.  Towards spring the ice becomes clear as glass and ever so magical.  Finally, if you come in the fall you are in for the biggest treat of all.  Both quakies and larches start to change colors in Fall.  Quakies turn first and then towards October the larches turn into what is one of the magical color combos you'll find in the world outside of the Enchantments in Washington.

Within these three parks you'll find many breathtaking summit hikes overlooking the mountain lakes and streams, or find a climbing paradise.  If you're interested in quick stops, however, the best are Lake Louise and a short hike to the lookout of the lake, Emerald Lake in Yoho, Johnston Falls, Peyto Lake towards the Jasper end of the park, and finally, the true gem - Moraine lake.  No matter when you go, Moraine Lake is a hassle to get to.  They only allow a certain number of cars in at once, and people park along the sides of the road miles from the parking lot, so it can be rough to get there.  That being said.  Once you get there, you will be in love.

Jasper

Having finished the first three, the biggest and hardest journey awaits.  That is the long journey to the end of the park and the north to Athabasca Glacier, falls, and Maligne Lake.  This is perhaps the prettiest of all spots, and the long drive north will not disappoint either.  Cutting through the valley, you'll be surrounded by massive peaks and beautiful mountain lakes as you trek to the finale of this long trip.  You can walk on the glacier, and they have an awesome lookout as well, but the real treasure, in my book, are the falls, which are not to be missed if you want to make the trek.

All in all, you'll not find a better trip than to the big 4.  Miles and miles of seemingly untouched terrain and some of the most beautiful mountain landscapes you'll ever see.  Enjoy it, and please comment on what you liked from your own trips there.

Most everything you need to know about visiting Peru

Machu Picchu

 

My Experience

I won’t pretend to say I know everything about Peru, but after spending a month there here is what I learned from my experience and things I wish I had known before and things I know my friends, who were there with me, wish they had known.

Peruvian fast food

Day to Day Peru Stuff

I think there are a few crucial things to know when visiting any country.  Things like crime, traffic, violence, people, food, etc.  Here are a few important ones for Peru.

1. First off Peru is relatively safe for South America. State lists it as high for various reasons dealing with a terrorist group that is mainly confined to the jungle now.  We dealt with a few thefts while I was there. I had a $10 bill stolen from leaving my stuff at one of the Pan Am Venues, but all-in-all, Peru isn’t bad if you’re not making yourself a target.  Along those same lines, this is just a simple travel tip I’ve learned over the years from people who want to steal things from me.  Don’t let them know you’re American.  Learn some words in another language and they’ll usually lose interest or get scared.
   

   
2. Getting around Peru is relatively cheap.  Don’t be fooled into thinking you have to pay $1000 for a tour.  You can easily find cheap tours and transport throughout the country.  That being said, take that with a grain of salt.  For my tour of the Millpu Ponds I took a tour that was $30 for an 8 hour bus ride and 2 hours at the site.  Pretty cool, right?  The guides themselves were great!  But our brakes locked up at one point and you could tell the bus was getting ready to break down.  Fortunately it didn’t on my tour, but keep in mind that that is a possibility on those long cheap tours.  We also got stopped at a police checkpoint and my guides were fined for not having done some paperwork needed for guiding.  Once again, this wasn’t my problem, but we spent a half hour waiting for the police and a lot of people ended up missing their transport home.
3. Uber is your friend. Uber is soooo cheap in Peru.  I took an uber back from Ollataytambo to Cusco and for a 2 hour journey, it was $30.  That being said, Peruvians are crazy aggressive drivers, and I definitely wouldn’t classify it as a organized chaos on the roads.  It’s just chaos, and mark yourself lucky if you don’t get into an accident while driving around Peru.
   

   

   Ceviche

4. Food is pretty good out in Peru.  Get ready to have lots of Ceviche for lunch and don’t expect every meal to be filled with quinoa. During my time here, I actually ate a lot of meat, so be prepared for that.  Also be prepared for very friendly people when it comes to Peruvians.

   Places to Go

There are so many awesome places to go, but from my experience not all of them are worth it.  Peru is a relatively small country, but it is vast in terms of times it takes to get from one destination to another  Air travel has definitely improved the times, but we're talking about a country that goes from Sea level to the over 14,000' tall Andes.

1. Machu Picchu - This is easily the most traveled and most wanted destination in all of Peru.  One of the new 7 Wonders of the World.  This destination is sure to impress.  Getting here is not easy, however, and many tour companies up charge a lot for the travel.  You can do it yourself though, and you can do it on the fly if you didn't book your tickets beforehand. 

   Machu Picchu & Cusco

   This is truly the gem of your trip if you plan to see things in Peru.  Sadly, it will also be the most expensive and you are likely to pay pretty high costs regardless of whether you decide to try to plan it yourself or if choose a tour company.  For many people, this kills the experience.  When I used to have almost no money and still wanted to travel the world, I probably would have just left Machu Picchu off for this very reason.  In order to enjoy it, you need to be able to pay the money without being mad about it.  If that’s a problem, there are a lot of other really good options around Peru.  But I give you that warning.  It’s worth it if paying the money is worth it to you.  If not, you may be severely disappointed.
   All that being said, I’m going to explain the best ways to get there and how to avoid paying astronomical costs (like what I did). But if you’re like me, and you end up only having a day off for a work trip...sometimes you get what you get.
   
   

   

   This was me and my guide, who was so great

   
   
   The traditional route to get to Machu Picchu is broken up into four legs of a long journey.  The first leg is the flight from Lima to Cusco (You can take a bus, but unless you have a million years to travel, I wouldn’t recommend it).  The second leg is a bus from Cusco to Ollataytambo (You can book these directly with the train companies, but don’t be fooled, it is not a train.  It is a bus.  No train goes in between these two).  The third leg is a train from Ollataytambo to Aguas Calientes.  The fourth and final leg is a bus from Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu.
   
   Most people will say you need a few days to do all of these legs and to enjoy Machu Picchu.  I did it all in a day, and I can honestly say that the only thing I wish I had had more time for was to explore Cusco.  That being said, you can book far in advance and get pretty cheap tickets, or if you need to do it the day of, it is possible!  Tickets are almost always available on the buses and trains, and you need a certified guide to enter Machu Picchu, but you can also get these at the entrance.  

   

   Huacachina - The oasis in the desert

2. Huacachina & Paracas National Preserve - This was one of my favorite spots in Peru.  A small desert oasis awaits you just a bus ride from Lima.  Peruhop is a great bus system for traveling around Peru, and this was one of my favorite stops in Peru.  You can get a ride to Paracas on the way.  It is a pretty cool spot to stop and see one of the oddest scenes in Peru - an island with penguins!  Bear in mind, however, that they guarantee wildlife sightings, but not penguin sightings.  I went and got extremely lucky to just see one penguin on the rocks in front of our boat before it jumped into the water.  Most of them hang out high up on the rocky mountain, so you may see them, and you may not.
   
3. Rainbow Mountain - A lot of people might be tempted to go to Rainbow Mountain.  I will admit that I've never been, but a lot of my friends have gone, and I've read many many bad reviews of the place.  The mountain is not nearly as colorful as people make it seem.  It is also often confused with a similar colorful mountain range in China.  Probably the worst of this, however, is the hike to the mountain.  The view of the mountain is above 14,000 ft and many people need oxygen to get to the top. The trail is also not very well maintained, and many don't make it or do but absolutely hate their life.  Add the fact that its elevation means the trail is often wet and muddy and under clouds and you can see why I advise you to stay away from Rainbow mountain.  If you have time to do everything else, by all means, but don't put it at the top of your list.

   

   Millpu Ponds

4. Millpu Pools - Another spot that I thought would be amazing in Peru.  These gorgeous turquoise pools are amazingly impressive.  That being said, I don't think it is worth the effort to get there.  In order to reach the pools you need to get to a far off city from Lima (I took a 9-10 hour overnight bus ride).  Then you have to hop on another 6 hour bus ride from there.  And then I read that you could swim in the pools.  That is no longer a thing!! You cannot swim!  Which to me made the entire trip pointless if I couldn't even go out in the ponds.  They cited too many people making the water muddy.  So in essence, I would say, skip the ponds.

   

   Lagoon 69
5. Huarez - This is the cute little mountain village with access to many of the huge blue lakes high in the mountains nearby like Lagoon # . This is also an access point to the Inca trail, and everyone I've talked to who has done this trip or the Inca trail loved it.  Keep in mind that it is also around 14,000 ft so oxygen is scarce.  That being said, the trail seems to be much better and less crowded than that of Rainbow Mountain.

   

   Salt Ponds

6. Salt Ponds - This is a nearby attraction to Cusco and Machu Picchu and can be done relatively easily.  I am sad I missed this place as it is easily one of the most beautiful places in Peru.  the problem, however, is that you can no longer walk along the ponds.  You can only photograph from the top, which once again...like the millpu ponds, you can do from the comfort of home browsing photos of the sites, so this is definitely another downer.

   

   Lake Titicaca

7. Lake Titicaca - Probably the prize of Peru outside of Machu Picchu. The highest lake in the world is home to a vibrant native population that you can visit and see their amazing floating, reed villages.  This is another difficult to reach destination, but is worth it for the interaction.

   

   Nazca Lines like these are all over Peru

   
   
8. Nazca Lines - Some of my friends did this and thought it was pretty fun.  The flight itself is probably the most fun part, but honestly, unless you're an archeologist, this isn't exactly the best thing to see in Peru.
   
9. Chicama May & Surfing - One thing I'm guessing you didn't know about Peru is it is one of the biggest surfing hot spots on the globe.  Sharks are very rare here.  In fact, around Lima there has only ever been one recorded attack and that was over 30 years ago.  The surf is usually good year round and the prices of learning to surf rival Bali and other very good places to learn.  If you're a big surfer though, you will want to check out Chicama May in northern Peru. Known as one of the biggest surfs in the world.  You can surf a wave for almost 2km here! Yeah that's right, for over a mile! Get there on the big southern swells and you'll be in business.

Trekking

One of the biggest draws of Peru is the opportunity to trek through some 

of the highest mountains of the world in a relatively peaceful and safe setting.  I have had multiple friends do this, and they all loved it.  If you have the time to take a month out of your life to do one of these treks, I would definitely recommend doing it.  The top treks include the Inca Trail, the Salkantay Trek, Choquequirao Trek, and the Santa Cruz Trail.  All cover high mountain passes and are well worth the hike.  The only thing to keep in mind is trekking in Peru is becoming more and more popular. The Inca Trail requires a permit and maybe soon the others will as well.